Monday, August 16, 2010

Palio: Round 2

It's that second time of the summer already - PALIO!  I know I already told you all about it when the Americans came to visit in July, but these Siena people love the horse race so much they have to watch it twice every summer.  Also, this time we saw even more Palio events leading up and following the actual race so there's more to report.  Woo!

If you remember from last time, the horses and jockeys go through a series of trials before the official race.  Although these don't count for anything, the Senesi still get very excited if their horse wins the trial.  This is a bit silly because the jockeys aren't even trying to race their horses yet.  They don't want to go so fast and risk hurting their horse before the race so they usually end up trotting along like it's no big deal.  Some horses even walk part of the trial races!


The day the horses are assigned to each contrada is a very exciting time.  Usually there are only a couple really rock star horses and all of the contradas want those horses.  When they don't get a good horse, some people get upset and sadly walk away from the piazza.  But, if they get a good horse, say one that has one a previous Palio or two, everyone cheers and sings and runs around like crazy!


Here's me standing in front of the assignment boards after all of the horses have been taken away by their contradas.


Race time is, of course very exciting!  Here I am standing really close to the front.  Look out horse - don't eat me!  Can you see the craziness in his eyes?  Woah!


The Palio is the biggest event of the entire year for Siena.  Everyone piles into the piazza hours ahead of time in hopes of getting a good spot.  We had to stand around for four or five hours just to get a decent place!  Here I am with a few thousand of my Senesi friends.


In July, the Selva (forest) contrada one.  But in August, the winner was the Tartuca (turtle) contrada.  Boy were they excited about that!


After the race, the Senesi rushed out of the piazza to get a good standing place in the duomo (the big church).  Before too long, the drummers and flag carriers came marching down the center aisle escorting the jockey and his horse to the front of the cathedral.  On this day, the jockey is the most important (and most famous) person to the Senesi - especially to the people of the winning contrada!  They carry him around on their shoulders and sing and dance and party all night long.


After the church celebrations, everyone walks down to the contrada's church (each contrada has their own church) where the Palio banner will hang after the festivities mellow out.


And then...PARTY TIME!  The winning contradas have been known to stay out until three or four in the morning singing and marching down the streets.  If a contrada hasn't won in a long time, they may have parties every night for weeks!  Those crazy Senesi!

To watch an event like this from the first days of the prova through the intense 90 seconds of racing to the after-race ceremonies is truly a fantastic experience that can't really described too well in words and pictures.  It is something you just have to witness yourself to appreciate.  So, anyone up for an Italian field trip next summer?  Count me in!  Until the next adventure, this is Flat Stanley saying, "Ciao, amici!"

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